Sometimes embroidering directly onto a garment is impractical, impossible or simply just ineffective. Creating your own embroidered patches is a simple alternative for these situations. You can directly sew your design into organza fabric instead of a finished garment. These can then be cut out into patches and sewn onto just about anything. They’re very easy to create and surprisingly beautiful, with results quite much like their traditionally embroidered counterparts. And with this technique of embroidery, you can precisely position without opening seams, embroidering over lumpy seam allowances or worrying about exact placement when hooping.
What you would need – Besides general machine embroidery supplies (top quality backing, embroidery design, thread, embroidery needles), you’ll need polyester organza to serve as a base to stitch on. One additional item will help you make perfect appliques: a heat tool. This may become a wood-burning tool, a stencil cutter or even a multi-purpose tool (available at most craft stores).
The warmth tools have different tips, and you’ll probably find that the main one having a very sharp point is easiest to handle. This tool will melt away excess organza round the outside the embroidery, leaving the outlines intact and providing a soft and pliable applique you can connect to just about everything. Have a very damp sponge in your work area while melting the organza to wash the tip of the tool and take away any melted organza that might otherwise stain the embroidery thread
Designs – Nearly every design can become a patch. Once you evaluate a design, search for open areas or any parts of straight stitching that may be troublesome. Resist the most obvious believed to remove tile organza around the straight stitching. Straight stitching isn’t stable enough to withstand wear and tear, and the organza could eventually work its way out from under tile stitches. It’s also advisable to leave the organza within the open work areas.
Organza is very stable and stands up well to some heavy stitch count design. Dark colors will show through with light colored thread, so choose a neutral color organza which will work well with a lot of designs. Leave the organza inside the open parts of tile design to add dimension and stability.
Although an excellent base fabric for embroidered patches, organza still must be stabilized. Use either water-soluble backing or a professional-quality, tear-away backing. Try to match the backing towards the garment fabric so the design will blend into the background. Usually one layer will suffice, but if the stitch count warrants a heavier backing, use multiple layers. It will still provide a soft, pliable applique. Hoop the backing and organza together in a hoop big enough to support the embroidered design.
Note: Slippery organza will be easier to hoop if you first adhere it to the backing with a temporary spray adhesive.
When the design is stitched on the organza, remove it from the hoop, and gently remove excess backing from tile back. Remove all backing before melting the organza. The backing will leave a gummy residue on the heat tool and can mar the embroidery. Use tweezers to remove any backing caught in small areas. Although it’s generally not suggested to clip the tlrreads on tile back of any design, clip any that may show on the front. Leave some thread tails that can be tucked behind the applique when you attach it to the garment. Use the heat tool to eliminate excess organza from round the edge of your design. This is actually the exact same technique used qawntn professionally manufactured custom embroidered patches.
Run the tool approximately 1/8″ away from the design edges. Don’t get too close, as polyester embroidery threads will melt out of this source of heat. Rayon embroidery thread can better withstand the warmth in the tool. Once the organza is melted, the applique boasts stable edges and secure outlines.
Attaching the patches you’ve created – Only use a thread color which fits the design outline. Then machine stitch appliques in position using a narrow zigzag. Or hand-sew to secure using small overcast stitches.
On sleeves or pant legs, the circumference would be the deciding factor for how an applique is attached. For instance, on the featured garment, too-narrow sleeves prohibited machine-applied appliques. When attaching multiple appliques on one garment, make use of the same technique throughout to find the best overall look. Once all of the appliques have been in place, attach any desired trims and buttons.